Giving Thanks

On this cold, blustery Cyber Monday morning, I'd like to take a moment to give thanks.

I'd like to give thanks for the followers and readers of this blog; without you, I'd be talking to the internet and it means so much to me to know that someone, somewhere out there is hearing me.

I am thankful for my girls, my four-legged kids, and the lights of my life. Foxie and Bailey are true blessings to have in my life. Bailey has come so far in the last year, and Foxie continues to age like a fine wine.




I am thankful that I have been able to continue this passion into my adult life, and am surrounded by people who want to help me keep my horses in my life, even as "grown up" life demands take their toll.

My life is on track to change coming into the next few months, but in a way I can only see as positive - more on that as things solidify, but until then, look forward to more product reviews, horse care thoughts and, of course, madness from yours truly.

Happy Holidays!

How To Survive the Polar Vortex: Rider Edition

If anyone reading this actually knows me, they will know that I am a freeze baby. I am cold all the time, and wear more layers than any person has any right to. BUT I did survive last winter (may I remind you, the -35 degree "feels like" and the wind so cold you couldn't have your face uncovered) with all of my fingers and toes. For a minute there it was tense, but with some thought and new winter boots, I SURVIVED!

 

Much cold when riding outside on a "nice" day.

Here's how I did it:

Baselayer: 

I start with Cuddle Dud long john bottoms, or, if it's legit freezing, I bump up to my Columbia Omniheat baselayer (Omniheat is the best. Seriously.) with coolmax base layer socks to hold them down. I also usually rock a Cuddle Dud top, or, again, the Omniheat (mine is a mens, but #YOLO) should it be legitimately too cold to function. The Cuddle duds are wicking, warm and the 360 degree stretch gives you a great range of motion, and they're pretty affordable, too!

Mid layer:

I add a fleece layer next; usually a Columbia zip up fleece and Kerrits Sit Tight and Warm breeches. I am a Kerrits ambassador, yes, but I sincerely LOVE these breeches (and the discounts Kerrits gives me ;) ). I walked out of the barn, bracing myself, the first time I wore them, for the wind to blow through them and steal every iota of body heat from my lower extremities. And I felt... nothing. Windpro fleece blocks the wind, and the seat is super sticky which is wonderful when it's freezing and muscles don't work. Over the breeches, I usually wear REI mereno wool hiking socks (they come in different weights, but I prefer to go for the warm ones!) or Smartwool knee highs, which were a gift last year. I love them, and they have Koi on them and they're just so cool.

Outer layer:

My riding jacket is my old college jacket - a Columbia interchange with a windbreaker layer and inside, a puffer type jacket with omni heat. As you can tell, Columbia has worked out really well for me - if I don't wear the omni heat jacket, I have another Columbia that is oversized that I wear when I need to be active and have room to move. If you have a jacket you like, maybe try an Omniheat vest. which is also one of my favorite layers.

For boots, I have my new Ariat Brossard boots (link to my review post), which I put toe warmers in. The thinsulate lined foot and leg are the winning factor with me - between them, and the wicking coolmax socks, my feet stay warm and most importantly DRY should I cold sweat or overheat. Dry feet are warm feet, remember that. I bought mine through Amazon Prime and paid 150$ for them (just watch the prices - a deal will come along!!).

For gloves, I'm at a bit of a loss. I really like my SSG ProShow winter gloves, which are again fully lined with thinsulate. They're flexible and I can actually do buckles and ride in them without feeling like I can't feel the reins or function. They are not amazingly warm, but they hold their own, especially because I don't have to pull them off every two seconds to do a buckle or use my fingers. Otherwise, if it's dry, I will double up on the $1 cheapo gloves from Target or where ever - I tend to go crazy buying them up when they clearance out in the spring, and I get to indulge my love of crazy colors in the process. Two layers of them blocks the wind better, and you can strip off the top pair should they get wet and your bottom layer might still survive.

I also sometimes throw on a neck gaiter, especially if the wind is super cold. I pull it up over my face when I'm outside. When I rode outside full time many-a-year ago, I'd ride with a full balaclava on under my helmet. And while you look like a ninja, your face is warmer and your snot doesn't freeze to your face. It's the little things, right?

I have Helmet ear muffs in my helmet and they actually work great - when I'm not mounted I wear an omni heat hat, and it is legitimately worth it's weight in gold, plus more. The minute you put it on it goes to work reflecting your heat back at you and keeping you warm.

Seriously, I'm obsessed with Omniheat - some of it is pricy, but you can find it at Columbia outlets or online (Sierra Trading Post FTW) for pretty reasonable prices. And it's worth it. So, so worth it.

Stay warm, my friends. 

Blanketing 2014: The Yearly Update

This morning it was a delightful 7 degrees with a -13 windchill while I scraped my car with wind blowing up the back of my knee length jacket and right through my work skirt and fleece lined tights. It's winter, guys.

It came early this year, much to my chagrin. I can tell that winter is surfacing in other places too- my blog gets hits for clipping patterns and blanket questions. If you've found this page while searching, welcome! I feel the need to revamp and reiterate winter concerns every year, it seems like.

PSA:

Last winter I saw a "study" posted on FB on my barn's homepage that stated that horses don't need blankets because they inhibit the horse's hair from standing up in (approximately a bazzillion) different directions to keep them warm, etc. etc. This is a hoax. Please don't spread that article around.

The Wardrobe:

Each of my girls has their own:

Fleece cooler - for post ride cool down and to prevent chills as they dry
Waterproof T/O sheet
Waterproof T/O blanket - Medium/220g with hood
Waterproof T/O blanket - Heavy/360g with hood

They also have a shared collection of liners and spares:
2 Schneiders blanket 180g liners
1 Rambo Optimo 100g liner
1 80g T/O blanket (no hood)
1 220g T/O blanket (no hood)

Right now, I think of sheets as a 1-2 year investment, as they wear them when it's sunny and they take a beating with rough fall and spring play, mud, etc. I also prefer that my sheets be as waterproof as possible, and waterproofing, no matter the quality, seems to diminish with the fabric quality. My sheets were new last fall but are already looking pretty rough. However, since I got then on sale for a great price, I don't mind replacing them - probably with the same model!

Medium and heavy weight blankets are also big on being rain and water proof, but I tend to think of them as more of a snow blanket, and these blankets get worn the majority of the truly cold season, thus the draw of the hoods for extra warmth.

For turnouts, I look for a denier 1200D or higher, and make sure what I get is a waterPROOF blanket, not a water resistant one. I like slick liners on my blankets, which helps keep the coats happy and prevent static. I also prefer leg-and-belly-strap variety blankets over ones with a tail strap (i.e. Horseware blankets), especially after watching another boarder's horse completely undress herself of both her turnout with belly straps and tail strap, as well as the stable blanket underneath in less than 15 minutes. I also like that I can cinch the leg straps down on really windy days to help keep the blankets from ballooning from a tail wind.
Features wise, I LOVE quick clip fronts, reflective something is always nice for when it gets dark so early, and I dearly love neck covers that attach with velcro, like the Weatherbeeta Detach-A-Neck line (shown on both girls - Foxie is rocking an WB Orican, Bailey a WB Original). They shift and turn less than neck covers that attach with surcingles, and have less of a problem falling up a lowered neck/gapping, plus there is no way a horse could get his hood over his head and hurt himself.

The Temperature Guide:

It's a source of anxiety every year... but here we go. I've compiled a few "opinions" from different sources, and looking at the various blanket guides provided by equine supply companies, equisearch, horsechannel.com and other places, it's honestly pretty confusing.

Take a 40 degree day, like today; some guides say a light (100g type) blanket. Others say a medium. One guide even says nothing at all. HUH?

60 degrees and below with wind/moisture anticipated will have me pulling out my light sheets - especially if my girls are still in their sleek summer coats. They have been wearing the sheets off and on as their coats have been coming in, and should be warm today with a high in the low 50's, some rain anticipated, low of 21 when they will be in the barn. I'd love to have mesh lined sheets, which I think do a bit better job of breathing when things get a bit warmer than anticipated, but the nylon lined ones I have do just fine. 

When we hit mid-low 40's during the day, with cold temps at night, I will add my liners to make light weight blankets out of my sheets. Especially for Foxie, who runs cold, this adds a nice layer of comfort on the inbetween days. 

Come the mid-30's, we'll pull out the mediums. If its sunny, they may not wear their hoods until things go below freezing. The mediums get a lot of play on the ends of the season, and work as a sub for a heavy with a liner underneath. 

Around the teens, I start dragging the heavy weights out, and go by feel from there. Last year, with the arctic vortex causing -35 degree temps with wind, both girls wore liners under their heaviest blankets. Foxie has a new heavy this year, which should be a bit warmer than her older (now Bailey's) heavy, as the filling is fluffy and unwashed. Her old heavy weight blanket has been hand-me-downed to her baby sister, who won't miss the extra warmth - should we experience another ice age, she always has liners to layer under her blanket. 

Temperature wise, I always like to test ears for warmth and take off my gloves and feel shoulders under the blanket, then the back, and then reach under to get a back and rump temp. I prefer my girls to feel pleasantly warm to bare hands without feeling too warm or damp. Foxie is winning the coat growing contest this year, as Bailey has hardly begun at all. I'm waiting to clip her until she needs it, as she takes only 15 or so minutes to cool out under her cooler, and usually only sweats after a hard lesson with our trainer  - I don't work her that hard! The girls are both wearing quarter sheets in the arena, as well, to keep off the chill.

Blanket care wise, I would have your spares within easy reach all winter in case you come to the barn to a soaked horse. Good blanket care includes washing the blankets at the end of the season (don't wait until it snows the next year, EW!) with appropriate soap. I have Weatherbeeta brand blankets and use Horseware blanket wash on them to preserve their waterproofing. For big repairs, I use a blanket repair service or seamstress, who has the heavy duty sewing machine to handle the job. For small repairs (my blankets get a lot of punctures, it seems), I have been using Tear Mender and have been happy with the way it seals punctures and sticks to the blankets through washing. 

Clipping:

I firmly support clipping your horse if they are sweating in their regular work. My favorite clip to do is what I call a "Modified Irish" which takes off hair on the bottom of the neck, down between the front legs but leaving the shoulders, and then, at the girth line, popping up to the elbow or above and slanting downwards from there. It takes me around 45 minutes or so to do with my Wahl Show Pro clippers (they are small, but don't heat up very much or make a lot of noise or vibration). I like this clip because it is easy to use the horse's body as an indicator for the heights of things, making it easy to get relatively symmetrical on either side.

Take this clip, minus the shoulder, high neck and face, and you've got my "Modified Irish" 

Obviously, the more your horse sweats, the more hair you need to take off. And the more blankets you will need to keep them warm, because you are stripping the horse of his or her natural protection against the cold. As a Minnesotan, I DO NOT clip the face. I will clip off the "beard" and will continue a clip up under the jaw, but I won't take hair off the face. It's too cold, and face slinkies always seem to get caught, pulled over eyes or other bad things happen. I also leave a strip on the belly below the "edge" where the hair is easily seen - my blankets don't have a belly wrap and behind where the girth lays, I like to leave some hair - plus, the belly always seems to be full of dander (I think I've found a hole in my bathing regimen...) and the hair is long and extremely thick. I'd rather leave it and give my horse some areas to "vent" the heat.

I don't want to go through all of the clips again, but hopefully if you have questions, you'll comment - I will get back to you ASAP!

Have a good winter, folks!

So You Want to Become an Equestrian: Riding Lessons

If you are new to horses, you'll see this sentiment again and again on the internet, as well as here on my blog; if you are new to the world of horses, take some lessons.

In my previous post, I mention the adage "You don't need a $35,000 horse, you need a $1,000 horse and $34,000 in lessons" and once again this is so, so true. Finding the right sport, instructor and program can, however, be a challenge. Here's my insight:

1. Decide what you are interested in. Sounds simple, right? Know yourself, and your preferences - if you're nervous at first, even if you want to learn to jump later, taking some lessons in a western saddle,  which to many feels more secure with a horn to hang on to, might help you build your confidence. I, as a young kid, fell in love with jumping horses, and while I didn't know it yet, I was actually watching the sport I'd end up in, three day eventing. Choosing western or English as a riding style is the first step to looking at places to take lessons. Some barns do offer both, so be aware of that, as well.

2. Scope out the local riding lesson scene. I would read reviews, and look at a few barns that offer the style of riding you prefer at the moment, even if their lessons turn out to be too expensive for you. Taking tours and talking to the owner or trainer about their program is also a good step at this point. I would search for a program that offers 45 minute - 1 hour lessons with a set instructor in a private or group setting. I would also look for a program that offers horsemanship training (see #3) and has a trainer that you feel comfortable with. I would also look at the horses and facility. The horses should be well cared for with no ribs showing, and shouldn't be upset or sour towards people. The barn setting is up to you - as a parent, a viewing lounge with heat may be a great asset to a program, while other barns may not have an indoor arena at all. I've ridden at barns with great facilities but sub par care and teaching, and I've also ridden at older barns without indoor arenas that have offered great instruction, but facing down winter weather outside as a new rider may be more of a challenge than you would like to take on.

3. Find out what the program entails. I would suggest a program that offers horse care knowledge as well as riding - one where you learn to groom and tack your horse, as well as ride it - as this will give you a stronger base in horses as a whole, and will help prepare you for being more involved in the future if you choose.

4. Be prepared. Check with the lesson barn as to if they offer boots or helmets for the first few rides; if you are going to take lessons regularly for more than a few weeks, I would suggest searching for affordable boots and helmets all of your own. Here's my tips (for English riders, sorry, Western folks!)

Boots - paddock boots are the short boots you can find with a zipper or lace up option. They come in leather and synthetics in a range of prices - I would suggest finding a pair you find comfortable. Brands like Ariat are reliable classics, while Dublin may be a good budget brand. For a new rider, tall boots ARE NOT NECESSARY and won't be a good investment until you are riding very regularly or showing, as you will build leg muscle and outgrow your boots.

If you find yourself wanting extra grip, the tall boot look or just another layer over the stirrup leathers, try an inexpensive pair of half chaps. Half chaps come in fun colors for kids and can also be washable which is a great asset. Don't ride in fashion "riding boots" or anything with a zipper on the inside of your leg - this can be very painful and could easily damage the tack you are using, or open the door to other problems, like your toe going through the stirrup because you don't have enough of a heel on your boots (tennis shoes also have this problem).

Helmets - helmets come in a range of prices, but should be properly fitted by a professional until you or your rider knows what feels right. There are many stylish budget models that won't put you out too much money should you lose interest. Helmets should be snug and shouldn't move or bounce on the head - but a too-small helmet will give you a headache! Brands do make helmets for different shaped heads, as well. I have a more oval head, and prefer helmets that reflect that shape as they fit laterally on my temples without being too small front to back.

Breeches - breeches are a great investment in comfort for riding versus jeans, and can be found in many styles and colors, and some are quite affordable. They come in basic knee patch styles, and as you advance you may grow a preference for full seat breeches, which have grippy material on your seat as well as down the inside of your legs.

Tack/saddles - some of you will want to begin your collection of horse stuff NOW. While a halter and lead rope in a generic size may be useful, buying grooming tools isn't a good investment because you shouldn't use them on more than one horse to prevent spread of skin gunks like fungus between horses. Saddles are similar, and should be fit to the horse they will be used on and won't fit several different lesson horses well. Ask your trainer if you are looking at purchasing a saddle to get their honest opinion; if they can help you find a saddle that will fit YOU better than a lesson saddle and will not cause their horses discomfort, you may be in business. Other items should also be bought and used at your trainer's discretion - including treats, as some horses can't have a lot of sugar or extra calories.

5. Have fun! Learning to ride can be a lot of fun, and open the doors to a passion that can stay with you your whole life. Enjoy, and learn!

New Horse Ownership Challenges

So, as I warn you guys over and over again, this blog is basically my personal mouthpiece on horse ownership and horses in general. I've been riding and caring for horses for 15 years, and apparently that makes me an expert. Recently, as we've had some boarder turn over in my barn, I've been witness to some really interesting... theories... on horse ownership. This is also known as someone went and bought a horse, and they don't even know how to put a halter on, much less ride or handle a 1,000+ lb animal safely.

There is a saying in horses that most people don't need a $25,000 horse - they need a $1,000 horse and $24,000 in lessons.

And I agree.

I took lessons at a variety of stables from the age of 8 - 16, when we finally purchased my first horse. At the point of that purchase, I had taken said horse from a skinny abused horse no one wanted to ride and had  done all of her retraining to make her one of the nicer horses at the barn. Find a trainer you like, you can trust and who runs a good facility - I'll lay out some tips for choosing a lesson barn in another post. If you are a green, or new rider looking at buying a horse, or have just purchased one, I'll ask you to think this decisions through really well.

Horses live for 25+ years in most cases, and as long as they are yours under ownership, they are your responsibility. This means you need to account for many years of the following:

- Boarding costs or daily checks if the horse is on your property.

Many horses can live comfortably in a field with shelter, hay/weed-free pasture and fresh water, but others may need a stall to protect them from the elements. Trees do not count as acceptable shelter in my opinion.

- Hay, water and, usually, some type of feed.

Horses have base nutritional needs that often cannot be met on pasture or hay alone. Ration balancers are available to give the horse the nutrition they need, or there is a variety of horse feed brands and types for horses who do not gain or maintain weight as well as others. Horses also need fresh, clean water, a fiber source like hay or pasture and most feeds will suggest offering your horse a source of salt for their consumption.

- Routine and emergency vet care

Horses need vaccinations each year, and also require a coggins test to be out and about with other horses at shows or in parks for trail rides. This prevents them from passing dangerous diseases to other horses and prevents them from becoming ill or dying because of one of those illnesses. Horses also need their teeth floated periodically to ensure that they can eat, chew and wear a bit comfortably for riding. If their teeth do not get ground down, horses can die of starvation because they cannot chew and process food. Teeth grow the horses's whole lives, but do sometimes slow down in older age - this is usually a yearly expense, with normal routine vet visits being twice a year. Emergency care should also be accounted for if your horse becomes injured or ill.

- Farrier work and other maintenance

Horses hooves also grow their entire lives, and need to be trimmed by a qualified farrier approximately every 6-8 weeks. Horses spend 90% of their lives standing or walking on those hooves, so they need to be kept at a comfortable length to prevent injury and ensure the horse is comfortable. Some horses may need shoes, while others do not, but shoes do present other potential issues and raise the cost, so unless your horse needs them due to excess wear on their feet, or soreness when ridden, try to stick with a bare foot. Other maintenance includes deworming every 8 weeks or as needed per your vet's assessment, hoof picking and generally looking the horse over for injuries and illness. Some horses have sensitive skin and develop fungus or other skin ailments which will need treatment and care, while others may pick up injuries in their pastures that can be attended to by their owner.

Horses may also need a winter blanket when temps turn cold, if they are skinny or don't grow enough hair to stay warm. Horses can be susceptible to cold winds, rain or heavy wet snow, all of which can compromise their ability to stay warm, even if an outdoor shelter/windbreak is provided. If you ride them in the winter, it's your job to ensure that the hair your saddle and bridle smooshes down is fluffed back up, and your horse is returned to his paddock or pasture dry and well prepared to protect himself from the elements. Many breeds are not endowed with acceptable winter coats for Minnesota winters, and my personal horses require several different weights of blanket to battle the temps.

- Lessons, tack, etc.

If you're a new rider, a few lessons AT THE LEAST should be in your budget. While some riders pride themselves on doing all of their training themselves, lessons will help you learn to ride your horse as well as maintain basic care and handling of your horse. Most people ride with tack, which needs to be properly fitted and in good repair. Seriously - find a trainer, and have them assist you when going through the process. Illfitting tack can lead to behavior issues, bucking, rearing and other dangerous behaviors, even if your horse is a saint. Many students take their trainer with them when purchasing the horse, as well, to ensure the animal is appropriate for your needs. While I LOVE spewing horsey information on the internet, I am a bear at the barn and do not appreciate being guilted into helping some weeping new horse owner whose horse got a little pushy or did something naughty. Get the help you need, but don't expect it to be given without a price in most cases.

Then you get into things like transportation, shows or trail riding passes, emergency vet bills, etc. etc. etc....


Now that I've done the fear tactics, I can tell you horses are amazing. They are rewarding, and help define you as a person. They are my four legged children and best friends. We have the most wonderful adventures together, and together, my horses give me wings to fly and do the sport I love. Horse people are often just as fantastic as their horses. Horses save lives and are fantastic therapists for all - having them in your life is a gift.

Just think about how much you want them in your life, and if you can afford it, first.